'Tis The Season!

One way to get yourself into the holiday spirit is to drive around Bensonhurst after dark. Entire blocks shine with red and green lights; you will be awestruck by the dazzling array of elaborately festooned houses.

You may also be awestruck by the giant cannoli that adorns the window of Dolce Italia, Ltd. I forgot to ask if it were real, because just then the owner brought out a plate of buttery almond cookies straight out of the oven. He set it down right next to me and my companions, nodding his head at us. I ordered a bag full of sugar-dusted pignoli cookies, cookies rolled in sesame seeds and butter half-moons; when I opened the bag, I saw that a heap of the fresh butter cookies had been emptied into it.

Needless to say, I spoiled my appetite for Romano's. To their credit, the folks at this Bensonhurst legend (est. 1935) did their best to revive my sagging appetite with lemony, egg-battered sole francese and linguini with white clam sauce. The latter must have contained a head of garlic!

Dolce Italia, Ltd.: 7105 13th Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 837-2464. Romano Restaurant: 7117 13th Ave., Brooklyn. (718) 232-5226.